Streaky Bay

Having not adjusted to SA time we didn't get away till 10.30am (8.00am WA time).  At Nullabor Roadhouse fuel was 209.5 - thankfully we didn't need to fill up. We stopped at the Head of Australian Bight where you pay to walk down a viewing platform to lookout over the limestone cliffs and the Great Australian Bight Marine Park which protects a major breeding ground for the southern right whale. The whales migrate here from Antartica in June and can be seen from July to September. The southern right whale was hunted relentlessly in the early 1800s and the population was reduced to only a few hundred. Protected internationally since 1935, the species has only recently shown real signs of recovery. We continued on and had a bit of scare with the car - Rick thought it was something to do with the turbo when we lost power driving up a hill. We couldn't blame the chip because Rick had already disabled that the day before. We had some lunch while we let the car cool down. Thankfully, it seemed fine when we got going again. With the Nullabor behind us we started seeing more signs of civilization. At Ceduna we handed over the last of our fresh fruit and veg to Quarantine and continued on to Streaky Bay arriving at the caravan park after 7pm.

Crossing the Nullabor

We were woken early with vehicles coming and going and road trains thundering past. We had fruit for breakfast in a bid to use up what we could before quarantine at the boarder. The scenery became more desert like with less trees and very little else except lots of dead roos on the road. In between DVDs the kids managed to do some schoolwork. We fueled up at Mundrabilla which was the most expensive fuel we have seen at 199.5. We had a little bit of phone reception so managed to ring Rick's mum for her birthday - Happy Birthday Wendy! Another milestone - the GPS showed 2000 kilometers to go! We crossed the boarder into South Austrlia and lost 1 1/2 hours. We stopped at the first lookout for views over the Great Australian Bight - it was quite misty and overcast. We decided to camp at 'Koonalda' which was 14km inland on a bumpy, well worn track. We weren't sure what to expect and arrived to find lots of rusting, old car bodies and the homestead which was built in 1938 from old railway sleepers. Koonalda Homestead was a service point for travellers along the Old Eyre Highway. Over the years, it became a graveyard for vehicles that broke down in the harsh landscape. It was really interesting and quite eerie walking around all the old car bodies - hard to believe people at the time attempted crossing the Nullabor in some of these cars on what would have been a dirt track at the time.

Heading Home

'Sammy'

We are officially heading home today which is still over 3000 kilometers away. We decided to break it up into two lots of 1500 which makes Streaky Bay a good half way point to break up the trip and stop for a couple of days. Before packing up we headed down to tanker jetty to see if we could find Sammy the resident sea lion. We didn't have to look too hard because he was having a snooze on the beach just near the jetty. After a quick grocery shop we headed back and packed the van. Beore leaving Esperance and heading across the Nullabor Rick decided we needed to replace one of the tyres on the van - fortunately the third place he phoned had the correct size. It was after 11 when we were finally on our way and we had to head North to Norseman before making any ground in an easterly direction. Just before Norseman I plugged in our home address into the GPS - 2956km to go! Around 4.30pm we set up camp at a roadside stop which was about halfway along the 'longest stretch of straight road in Australia' which by the way is 146km.

Cape le Grand National Park

The plan was to spend a couple of days here taking it easy before embarking on the journey home. Rick spent some time helping a German couple having some car troubles. We decided to head across to Le Grand beach to try escape the wind. We went for a drive along the beach and then did some rock scrambling where we meet another family from Perth. We found an octopus hanging out in the rock pools. We enjoyed a drink with them at their caravan and then headed back for dinner.

Esperance

Lucky Bay

Over 500km today to get to our next destination which is Cape le Grand National Park. It has been consistently windy traveling all down the west coast but today we copped the worst head wind of the trip - a 30-40 knot easterly pounded us all the way. We stopped and made some lunch at Ravensthorpe and the kids had a run around in the park. We arrived in Esperance just after 4 and called past the visitors centre before heading straight out to Cape le Grand. We went straight to Lucky Bay campground which seemed quite busy so we headed over to Le Grand Beach campground which had a 'Campground Full' sign - back to Lucky Bay. It was quite late by this stage and we weren't keen to drive all the way back into town so we thankfully the other campers were happy for us to squeeze in. I forgot to mention what a beautiful location this is - it reminds me a little of Wilsons Promontory with it's turquoise water, white powdery sand and granite boulders. It was still blowing a gale but we seemed quite protected in the campground.

Albany

Brig Amity

Whale World

The Gap

Natural Bridge

Albany is quite a large sprawling town. We went for a walk up the main street and came back via the 'Patrick Taylor Cottage' built in 1832 which is the oldest dwelling still intact in WA. On the waterfront was the old gaol which was built in 1852 to cater for convicts arriving and a replica of the 'Brig Amity' which was a NSW supply ship that carried the first soldiers and convicts to Albany to form the first settlement in WA in 1826. We drove out to 'Whale World' located on Frenchman Bay which is on the site of the once operational Cheynes Beach Whaling Company. The company ceased slaughtering in November 1978 which marked the end of whaling in Australia - not that long ago! We had a walk around the Whalechaser boat and then did a guided tour which explained the process of capturing, flensing (stripping the blubber), the cutting up deck, and the processing factory. There was an amazing skeleton exhibit displaying a 22metre Pygmy Blue Whale. The station here mainly hunted sperm whales and thankfully even back then had the foresight to protect the humpbacks after they were nearly hunted to extinction. Driving back towards town we stopped at Torndirrup National Park for a look at the very windswept blow Holes, The Gap and Natural Bridge. It was very scenic coastline but I think we are all getting a little blase' towards sightseeing with our minds set on going home. We had fish and chips at the jetty for dinner.

Walpole - Albany

We left the van at the caravan park and did Hilltop Road scenic loop which leads to the giant 400 year old tingle trees. Unlike other eucalyptus, tingles do not have a taproot. They have a shallow root system that spreads as they grow older, causing the trees to buttress. Not so long ago one huge tree was the main attraction because visitors could take a photograph of their car in the hollowed out base. However, years of people and vehicles trampling around it's base had compacted it's nutrient supply and in 1990, the giant collapsed. To minimize the impact of humans on the tingle trees and to allow for an ever increasing number of visitors a tree top walk was proposed and a competition was held to find the perfect design. We picked up the van and continued to the Valley of the Giants Tree-Top walk. We had a look through the discovery centre and did a guided walk through the ground level Ancient Empire walk. The tingle trees are very different looking with lots of burls and tangled branches. They can have a base circumference of 20m. The 600m tree top walk which was opened in 1996 takes you high into the canopy - 40m at it's highest point. It is designed to sway in the breeze, mimicking life in the tree tops. The view of the trees are amazing. The next stop was the 'Elephant Rock Cider' company where they make a variety of ciders, toffees and sauces but the best thing was the delicious ice creams. We drove through Denmark and decided to continue on to Albany - another 54km.