Darwin

Whiprays

Black-breasted Buzzard

Jabiru

Wedge-tailed eagle

Rufous Owl

Berry Springs

Rick did some work on the car to install the new performance chip. We then drove down to Berry Springs to visit the Territory Wildlife Park, an open air wildlife park set in natural bushland including mooson forest, wetlands and woodlands. Thankfully you could catch a train around the various sections because the humidity was very uncomfortable. Some of the highlights were the whiprays getting fed at the billabong, the birds of prey display and the aquarium. Caitlin loved getting a close view of all the different turtles. Cooper loved the saw-fish and the crocodile in the aquarium. We had a picnic lunch at the nearby Berry Springs nature reserve and were able to cool off in the natural springs.

Darwin

Aquascene

USS Peary Memorial

The Old Town Hall

The old courthouse and police station

The 'Tree of Knowledge'

We had an early start to get to Aquascene in the city for the fish feeding at high tide which was at 8am. The kids really enjoyed throwing the bread out to the fish which included diamond scaled mullet, milkfish, catfish, toadfish, shovel nosed ray and a few bat fish. After the fish feeding we walked along the esplanade and did a bit of a walking tour of some of the city sights. Overlooking Darwin Harbour is the memorial dedicated to the crew of the USS Peary, which was attacked and sunk during the first Japanese air-raid on Darwin on the 19th Feb 1942.  We continued walking along the esplanade to government house and turned down Smith street where there are a number of stone buildings dating back to the 1880s including the post-cyclone Tracy ruins of the old Town Hall. We took a look at the large banyan fig tree known as the 'Tree of Knowledge' which was a significant historical meeting place.  We continued down the mall to find a smoothie.  We then decided it might be good to escape the heat and visit the museum. There was a great display of stuffed animals from the different habitats of the Territory and the kids enjoyed finding all the animals and birds that they had seen. We watched a short documentary on 'Sweetheart' a 5m salty that became a Top End personality after attacking several fishing dinghies. There was a whole room devoted to Cyclone Tracy which devastated Darwin on Christmas Eve 1974. Only 400 of its 11,200 homes were left standing and 71 people were killed. We had a rest in the afternoon before heading out to the Mindil Beach Sunset market.

Darwin

After a leisurely breakfast we went to Crocodylus Park & Zoo which we thought was a bit of a rip off at $90. We had a look through the crocodile museum to fill in some time before the next tour at 12. The tour was basically a feeding demonstration which involved dangling a hunk of meat above the crocodiles to get them to leap up out of the water to snatch it. The kids got to hold a baby croc and an olive python. It was basically a farm with loads of crocodiles in small enclosures some set aside for breeding others for handbags. There was a bizarre collection of other animals including iguanas, monkeys, marmosets, lions, tigers, leopards, buffalos, sea turtles etc. A lot of the animals seemed hot and bothered in their less than adequate enclosures. It was then time to get wet and we went back to the Leanyer Water Park. This time it was open except for the water slides which were closed due to the water quality. We went back to the van around 4 and fired up the air conditioner.

Darwin

After some schoolwork we headed into the city which was about a 15 minute drive. We found a car park and Rick went to the post office to pick up a parcel. We went for a walk down to Smith Street Mall and popped into the visitors centre. We bought some lunch and decided to go to the Leanyer Recreation Park but on arrival found out it doesn't open on Mondays and Tuesdays. We drove back into the city and went to the wave pool at the Waterfront Precinct. it was a great way to cool off. Cooper has gained a lot more confidence in the water over the last couple of weeks. We did some grocery shopping at Palmerston before heading back to the van.

Kakadu - Darwin

Intermediate Egret

Whistling ducks and Magpie Goose

Caitlin was unwell overnight and had vomited a few times but seemed ok in the morning. We packed up and before heading off had a chat with Cheryl and David who we had met at Karumba. In Jabiru we fueled up and had morning tea at the bakery. We stopped at Mamukala wetlands where there is an observation platform to view the birdlife. There was still quite a bit of water around.  It was nearly 300km to Darwin but also slow going because we kept getting get caught behind road trains. We decided to stay at Darwin Free Spirit in Palmerston. After setting up the kids went for a swim in the pool.

Kakadu

This morning we planned to do the Nourlangie region where a 1.5km circuit walk takes you past an ancient Aboriginal shelter and several art sites. We made the 10.30am ranger talk at the cave. Archaeological excavations on the floor of the shelter have revealed objects dating back 20,000 years. We continued on to the lookout and made our way back to the car. We were all feeling the heat today and didn't feel up to anymore walks. We had a quick drive down to Jim Jim Billabong then had a wander around the Warradjin Aboriginal Cultural Centre. Back at the van we some lunch and hit the pool to cool off. We decided it was way too hot to cook so we went to the bistro for dinner.

Kakadu

White-bellied sea eagle

Jacanas

Twin Falls

Jim Jim Falls

We were up at 6am for the Yellow Water boat cruise. It was a great time to be out on the water - still a comfortable temperature, the crimson sunrise and all the sounds of the abundant birdlife. Our guide was great - informative with a sense of humor. We saw heaps of birds and a few crocodiles. When we got to the resort we all filled up at the buffet breakfast. We then got organized to go to Jim Jim and Twin Falls which is 60km on dirt road before and another 10km of sandy 4WD tracks. Access to Twin Falls was by a boat shuttle service and a walking track over boulders to a boardwalk. Rick and I remember swimming up the gorge when we were here 19 years ago. Apparently the water quality was deteriorating with the amount of people. The falls were flowing a little. We took some photos and wet ourselves under the pump showers which were provided on the boardwalk to make up for being unable to swim. It was hot. We then made our way to Jim Jim Falls which involved a 2km walk through monsoon forest and over boulders. The last section got rather difficult for the kids. It was all worth it when we got to the plunge pool surrounded by the spectacular 150m high cliffs. The falls are not flowing this time of year. We had a lovely time and best of all there were very few people around. We started heading back. At the campground two French girls asked us for a lift back to their van which they had left back at the main road 60km away. It was quite late by this stage so we would be one of the last cars heading out. I sat in the back with the kids and they both squashed together on the passenger seat. They were very thankful.  Caitlin made the observation that when the German guy asked us for a lift earlier today Dad made him stand on the tow bar to cross the croc infested river but he then let the two French girls sit in the front!

Kakadu

Happy Birthday Dad! We had a very sleepless night - a few of the locals were staying in the nearby cabins and after a few drinks got louder and louder, screaming obscenities at each other and culminating in a fist fight. It continued till about 3 in the morning. I woke up with a shocking headache from too much sun and lack of sleep. We decided on a restful day around the pool. I went to reception to enquire about booking the Yellow Water Cruise and also to find out about the situation overnight because we would have to consider moving. They were very apologetic and offered the cruise free of charge - yeah! We didn't move too far from the pool for most of the day. Later in the afternoon we did the boardwalk at Yellow Water which looks over the wetlands.

Kakadu

After a leisurely breakfast we decided a good place to start was the visitor centre which is over 40km further north. There was a great library which the kids enjoyed and habitat display. We collected some info and watched a short movie in the theatre room which was lovely and cool. We decided to continue on to the East Alligator region which is further north again. We bought some groceries at Jabiru and some fantastic salad rolls at the bakery. First stop was Cahills Crossing where there is a viewing platform over East Alligator river which is suppose to be a great spot for viewing crocodiles at high tide when they wait for the fish. The river forms the boundary between Kakadu and Arnhem land. We spotted quite a few crocs but high tide wasn't until 4pm. We had a picnic lunch then went and did the Bardedjilidji sandstone walk which the ranger said would be shaded. We tipped water over the kids to keep them cool - Cooper cracked it because he didnt like his t-shirt getting wet! The walk meanders amongst layered sandstone outliers. It wasn't very shaded apart from a couple of caves. It was actually quite silly hiking in the middle of the day in 39 degrees but it seemed like a good idea at the time. The 2.5km seemed like 5 but before long we were back in the air-conditioned car. We bought an ice-cream at the boarder store and then meet with the ranger to do the guided Manngarre rainforest walk which was at least shaded. We then did the Ubirr rock art sites and a couple of the informative talks. We climbed the rocky outlook for views over the Nadab floodplain. We decided to head off before the sunset because it was over an hours drive back to the campsite.

1/2 way point

We have been away three months today which marks the half way point of our journey. Everyone is feeling a little sleep deprived with another hot night and screeching bats in the early hours of the morning. The family in the van next to us left their air con all night which we might have to try. We were all feeling a lot better after a relaxing swim in the pools and we had it to ourselves for part of that time. Then we were on our way to Kakadu. We stopped at Katherine and bought some lunch at Brumbys. it was about 360km to Cooinda which is were we decided to stay mainly because it had a pool and with 38 degrees forecast for the next few days we thought it might come in handy. We parked the van and hit the pool before cooking a BBQ for dinner.

Mataranka

Lots of 'little red flying foxes'

We did not sleep too good at all with the heat, insects and thundering road trains only metres away. We did break a new record however, and were driving by 8.00am. We arrived at Mataranka Homestead around 11am to the smell of bat guana. We checked in at the campground and were suprised at how very few people were around. After setting up and a quick lunch we headed down to the thermal pools. The warm thermal springs which are part of Elsey National Park are 34 degrees and set amongst a lush pocket of palms and tropical vegetation. There may be not many people around but loads of 'little red flying foxes' - we read later about 250 000 hanging out in the tree tops in huge camps. We had a lovely swim and then went for a drive into Mataranka and then went to Bitter Springs which is another thermal spring without the bats. Although we didnt bring our bathers the kids and Rick couldn't resist going in again. Caitlin and Cooper were very excited when another little girl brought a small turtle over to show them. Back at the van it was an amazing sight to see all the bats take to the skies. We were in two minds about going to Darwin or Kakadu first with the tempertures hovering around 38 degrees in Jabiru. We are so close now and it is only going to get hotter so we made the decision that tomorrow we would go to Kakadu.

Are we there yet?

A big day of driving ahead of us today. There was a lot of smoke haze around and the sun was orange. We set a new record and were driving out of the caravan park at 8.15am. I did some grocery shopping while Rick gave the van a wash. We were heading north out of Alice on the Stuart Hwy by about 10. We plugged Mataranka in to the GPS - over 1000kms of long, straight road! The kids started off well - some school work, DVDs, DS, and plenty of snacks kept them going. We stopped and made some salad rolls for lunch at a roadside stop. We fueled up at Tennant Creek and were pleased when we passed 'Three Ways' because it meant we had started to cover new ground. Cooper had a melt down in the last hour. We pulled into Elliot just after 6pm and after seeing the campground we decided we would prefer to find the next roadside stop - a further 25km north. Everyone else must have thought the same because it was packed. We set up and cooked some dinner. It was still hot and there were heaps of bugs! Just under 300kms to do in the morning to get to Mataranka.

Alice Springs

The park hosted pancakes every Sunday so that was breakfast sorted. A housekeeping day today - washing clothes, repacking the van, washing the car etc. The kids did some journal writing in the morning. It was a scorcher - 37 degrees so we visited the pool a couple of times. We decided to go out for dinner to celebrate the half way mark of our trip - 3 months down! At 5 we watched the didgeridoo performance at the caravan park. Caitlin & Cooper voluntered to get up and have a go. It was quite entertaining. We went to Memos (services club) for dinner.

The Red Centre Way

Black footed rock wallaby

Glen Helen Gorge

Orminston Gorge

It got quite cold in the early hours of the morning. We had some breakfast and started the pack up. The kids were a lot more helpful this morning. On the way out we stopped to do the Kalaranga lookout walk. The scenery of the surrounding sandstone amphitheatre was amazing. We saw a few lizards and a gorgeous black-footed rock wallaby. We continued driving along the rocky tracks and sandy bed of the Finke River back out to Larapinta Drive and had a quick drive through Hermannsburg, an Aborginal community. Originally set up as an outback Lutheran mission in 1877 there are a number of historical buildings but we weren't too keen to hang around. From the outside it seemed a scene of despair - whatever we are doing doesn't seem to be working for the Aboriginal community. We drove west again then headed north along Namatjira drive. Our next stop was a quick side trip to the Tnorala Conservation Reserve (Gosse Bluff) where we saw the remarkable ring of rugged hills formed by am ancient meteorite crater. The comet was believed to have hit the earth over 140 million years ago and measured over 600 metres in diameter. Now we were in the West Macdonnell Ranges N.P. We stopped for lunch at the Glen Helen Resort. We did the short walk to view Glen Helen Gorge and continued driving the short distance to Orminston Gorge. It was really hot. We were originally planning to stay the night here but after a quick inspection of the camp sites we all decided to spend the afternoon here and continue on to Alice Springs back to our van. We did the Ghost Gum Lookout walk (2.5km) for views down the gorge and a rock scramble back up the river beds to the waterholes where we had a swim. We got back to the car just after 5 and headed for Alice. Rick spotted a bearded dragon sitting in the middle of the road so we stopped for a closer look and get him off the road. When we arrived at the caravan park we got our van out of storage and set up.